Well, back in the UK the real work begins. Like British students all over the country, the majority of my essays are due in on Monday. Is anyone else feeling slightly overwhelmed by the work to be done over the weekend?
Better get back to the books! ;-)
24 April 2009
21 April 2009
Secret Library in Amman
Well, I'm back in the UK now and a ton of essays await me. However, if anyone comes across this blog who's thinking about doing research in Amman, there's a large library run by the Americans that's kept a secret. I was chatting to a girl from the U.S. in Books@Cafe (which I'd highly recommend) and she told me about it.
You can't get their address off the internet (you have to phone and request it and they email it to you) and when I arrived everyone kept asking how I'd heard about them. They don't advertise and there's not even sign on the building because of "security issues".
Only the Americans would have an enormous collection full of unique books on Jordan and keep it a secret because they're so paranoid about security!
I have to say they were very helpful, so I'm not willing to spill the beans here, but if you get in touch I'll send you the details.
20 April 2009
A Meeting with Toujan Faisal
This evening I had the honour of spending two and a half hours with Toujan Faisal. The first woman elected to the Jordanian parliament, and a tireless campaigner for democracy, she is charismatic, intelligent and truly inspirational.
Her insights into Middle East politics are both startling and accurate, revealing and analytical. She realises the value of participating in elections and has fought the corruption of the political system at every turn. She has had an apostasy case brought against her, been imprisoned, gone on hunger strike, and put her life on the line for her cause on several occasions.
Such is the strength of her ideas that even the Islamists, who brought the apostasy case against her and are her political opposites, now want to use her platform for reform.
I have always been passionate about women's political participation but from her I learnt that while there is corruption, it doesn't matter who is in power. Democracy is the only way to ensure everyone has a voice, and until democracy is in place women's voices will not be heard unless they sink to the level of the men who have gone before them.
She reminded me of the proverb:
"Power corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely."
Her insights into Middle East politics are both startling and accurate, revealing and analytical. She realises the value of participating in elections and has fought the corruption of the political system at every turn. She has had an apostasy case brought against her, been imprisoned, gone on hunger strike, and put her life on the line for her cause on several occasions.
Such is the strength of her ideas that even the Islamists, who brought the apostasy case against her and are her political opposites, now want to use her platform for reform.
I have always been passionate about women's political participation but from her I learnt that while there is corruption, it doesn't matter who is in power. Democracy is the only way to ensure everyone has a voice, and until democracy is in place women's voices will not be heard unless they sink to the level of the men who have gone before them.
She reminded me of the proverb:
"Power corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely."
18 April 2009
Political Participation of Women in Jordan: Optimism dashed
After meeting with three NGOs on Thursday I was feeling pretty positive about the political opportunities for women in Jordan. There are a lot of problems that prevent them from becoming politically engaged: the tribal system, a very conservative culture, an electoral system that discriminates against them and a lack of confidence amongst women themselves in their ability to take on positions of responsibility.
However, there is also a quota of six seats reserved for women in the Parliament, which is very impressive for the Middle East region and some fantastic NGOs working very hard to support the women who do want to run in elections. Although there are lot of challenges, I came away on Thursday feeling that change is possible.
Yesterday I took a day off from research and went the Petra. The hotel organised a driver and from him I got a real insight into the mind of a Jordanian man. He thought that women's education was a bad thing and that the introduction of mobile phones was dangerous because it meant women could talk to each other and share ideas. He also did not have a problem with polygamy (as long as you did not exceed four wives) because it is sanctioned by "the Muslim religion". "The man is always on top, he always has the last word." The rest of what he had to say ranged from sexist to the down right bizarre.
The point I want to make is that the interpretations of Islam vary widely and some women view it as potentially incredibly empowering. If change is to happen in Jordan, it will occur within an Islamic framework, but when some men use religion at every turn to justify the unfair treatment of women, it feels like an uphill battle.
15 April 2009
Only at the British Council...
Yesterday I visited the British Council in search of more resources. It's a very impressive building in the heart of Amman. In all my years traveling I am happy to say I have never had cause to visit a British Embassy... except for on one occasion in Benin where there wasn't one. In emergencies they said to go to the one in Lagos, Nigeria... yup, because Nigeria is where you really want to go if you're in trouble.
Anyway, the gentleman at the desk was very helpful and said he would go and do a search of my subject: women's political participation in Jordan. They have a small library so I was hoping there might be a find.
I had to try very hard to stifle my laughter with the list he came back with:
Women in Love by D.H. Laurence
Little Women by Louisa May Alcott
and...
Cat woman!
I think he realised this wasn't what I was looking for but he kindly took me to speak to someone who works on a program that is related to my research and was very helpful. It just goes to show, you never know what's round the corner.
Anyway, the gentleman at the desk was very helpful and said he would go and do a search of my subject: women's political participation in Jordan. They have a small library so I was hoping there might be a find.
I had to try very hard to stifle my laughter with the list he came back with:
Women in Love by D.H. Laurence
Little Women by Louisa May Alcott
and...
Cat woman!
I think he realised this wasn't what I was looking for but he kindly took me to speak to someone who works on a program that is related to my research and was very helpful. It just goes to show, you never know what's round the corner.
14 April 2009
Amman taxis
Someone asked me today what I was doing in Jordan. I explained, I'm doing a Masters thesis and I'm really interested in women's political participation. I wanted to write about the UK (I'm British so that's the context I know the most about) but my degree is in Development so I needed to focus on a developing country. I work for a couple of Middle East charities and my boss suggested Jordan as it's very safe, many people speak English and most people are helpful. As I was explaining her eyes got wider and I realised I sounded a little crazy, but here I am nonetheless, in Amman, harrassing NGOs and research centres for interviews and advice.
I arrived at the airport on Sunday night feeling a little bewildered and overwhelmed. After buying a SIM card I went outside to look for a taxi. Someone thrust a piece of paper into my hands, someone else took my suitcase and before I knew it I was in the back of a cab. I remembered how in my guide book it had said "make sure taxis are metered" but when I asked the driver he said the price was 22JD, "look at the piece of paper". Oh well, rule number one out the window. I anxiously clutched the panic alarm my Mum had given me before I left as we drove, in the pitch dark, around the winding streets of Amman. After asking a few people for directions we arrived, to my great relief, at the Shepherd Hotel safe and sound.
So far most taxi drivers have been very helpful, despite my lack of Arabic and complete disorientation. However, it was an exchange with one today that I felt must be shared. I've traveled all over the world and generally attract attention in the Middle East, Africa and Latin America because I have blonde hair... but I've never recieved a proposal like this!
The taxi driver collected me from my coffee shop and jokingly said "next time I come for coffee with you". "Sure", I laughed and gave directions to the NGO I was meeting. I complemented his English and he explained he had studied opthalmic and pshychiatric nursing in London. He said he liked London, as well as Israel and Turkey because they were much freer. "Great" I thought, I'm going to hear about the political constraints of Islamic states. I could not have been more wrong. "You see," he said "there I can suck my girlfriend's tongue and she can suck my tongue. In Israel it is very free, there are beaches where we can go nude. "Do you want me to be your boyfriend for the rest of your trip?" I politely declined and showed him the wedding ring I'd worn for just this kind of occasion. "Oh," he said, "maybe you can give my number to your friends instead."
I knew where we were going so I wasn't scared and in fact wanted to laugh at the situation, given that he had to be about 65. I declined his second offer and thankfully we shortly reached my destination. Oh, the things one experiences in the name of research!
I arrived at the airport on Sunday night feeling a little bewildered and overwhelmed. After buying a SIM card I went outside to look for a taxi. Someone thrust a piece of paper into my hands, someone else took my suitcase and before I knew it I was in the back of a cab. I remembered how in my guide book it had said "make sure taxis are metered" but when I asked the driver he said the price was 22JD, "look at the piece of paper". Oh well, rule number one out the window. I anxiously clutched the panic alarm my Mum had given me before I left as we drove, in the pitch dark, around the winding streets of Amman. After asking a few people for directions we arrived, to my great relief, at the Shepherd Hotel safe and sound.
So far most taxi drivers have been very helpful, despite my lack of Arabic and complete disorientation. However, it was an exchange with one today that I felt must be shared. I've traveled all over the world and generally attract attention in the Middle East, Africa and Latin America because I have blonde hair... but I've never recieved a proposal like this!
The taxi driver collected me from my coffee shop and jokingly said "next time I come for coffee with you". "Sure", I laughed and gave directions to the NGO I was meeting. I complemented his English and he explained he had studied opthalmic and pshychiatric nursing in London. He said he liked London, as well as Israel and Turkey because they were much freer. "Great" I thought, I'm going to hear about the political constraints of Islamic states. I could not have been more wrong. "You see," he said "there I can suck my girlfriend's tongue and she can suck my tongue. In Israel it is very free, there are beaches where we can go nude. "Do you want me to be your boyfriend for the rest of your trip?" I politely declined and showed him the wedding ring I'd worn for just this kind of occasion. "Oh," he said, "maybe you can give my number to your friends instead."
I knew where we were going so I wasn't scared and in fact wanted to laugh at the situation, given that he had to be about 65. I declined his second offer and thankfully we shortly reached my destination. Oh, the things one experiences in the name of research!
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