Someone asked me today what I was doing in Jordan. I explained, I'm doing a Masters thesis and I'm really interested in women's political participation. I wanted to write about the UK (I'm British so that's the context I know the most about) but my degree is in Development so I needed to focus on a developing country. I work for a couple of Middle East charities and my boss suggested Jordan as it's very safe, many people speak English and most people are helpful. As I was explaining her eyes got wider and I realised I sounded a little crazy, but here I am nonetheless, in Amman, harrassing NGOs and research centres for interviews and advice.
I arrived at the airport on Sunday night feeling a little bewildered and overwhelmed. After buying a SIM card I went outside to look for a taxi. Someone thrust a piece of paper into my hands, someone else took my suitcase and before I knew it I was in the back of a cab. I remembered how in my guide book it had said "make sure taxis are metered" but when I asked the driver he said the price was 22JD, "look at the piece of paper". Oh well, rule number one out the window. I anxiously clutched the panic alarm my Mum had given me before I left as we drove, in the pitch dark, around the winding streets of Amman. After asking a few people for directions we arrived, to my great relief, at the Shepherd Hotel safe and sound.
So far most taxi drivers have been very helpful, despite my lack of Arabic and complete disorientation. However, it was an exchange with one today that I felt must be shared. I've traveled all over the world and generally attract attention in the Middle East, Africa and Latin America because I have blonde hair... but I've never recieved a proposal like this!
The taxi driver collected me from my coffee shop and jokingly said "next time I come for coffee with you". "Sure", I laughed and gave directions to the NGO I was meeting. I complemented his English and he explained he had studied opthalmic and pshychiatric nursing in London. He said he liked London, as well as Israel and Turkey because they were much freer. "Great" I thought, I'm going to hear about the political constraints of Islamic states. I could not have been more wrong. "You see," he said "there I can suck my girlfriend's tongue and she can suck my tongue. In Israel it is very free, there are beaches where we can go nude. "Do you want me to be your boyfriend for the rest of your trip?" I politely declined and showed him the wedding ring I'd worn for just this kind of occasion. "Oh," he said, "maybe you can give my number to your friends instead."
I knew where we were going so I wasn't scared and in fact wanted to laugh at the situation, given that he had to be about 65. I declined his second offer and thankfully we shortly reached my destination. Oh, the things one experiences in the name of research!
